Hooray for a 4 day weekend!! I can guarantee that teachers are happier for a few extra days off of school than the students. This weekend was Orthodox Easter, and let me tell you, it was unlike any Easter I’ve ever experienced. So, let me tell you about it!
Preparation for the weekend began earlier in the week when my host mom first made her traditional chocolate cake. She made this for Easter as well as her oldest son’s birthday, which happened to be on Easter. That was on Monday. Then, on Tuesday, she made Gevrek, a type of Kifli, (kee-flee), which is similar to our crescent rolls. Unfortunately, I was at school when she prepared these, but she made 2 plastic bags full of this delicious, buttery bread covered in sesame seeds. The kind she prepared on Tuesday were “posno,” meaning without eggs or dairy products. This is because people were fasting until Easter. Click the words above to see more pictures and the differences between the two types of bread!
Then, on Wednesday, together we made another type of Kifli. This included eggs and milk, and my host mom explained these are better than the posno Kifli. Also, both include enough margarine to last a year, but when in Rome, right? Again, these are rolled in sesame seeds. You can see them below:
Preparation for the weekend began earlier in the week when my host mom first made her traditional chocolate cake. She made this for Easter as well as her oldest son’s birthday, which happened to be on Easter. That was on Monday. Then, on Tuesday, she made Gevrek, a type of Kifli, (kee-flee), which is similar to our crescent rolls. Unfortunately, I was at school when she prepared these, but she made 2 plastic bags full of this delicious, buttery bread covered in sesame seeds. The kind she prepared on Tuesday were “posno,” meaning without eggs or dairy products. This is because people were fasting until Easter. Click the words above to see more pictures and the differences between the two types of bread!
Then, on Wednesday, together we made another type of Kifli. This included eggs and milk, and my host mom explained these are better than the posno Kifli. Also, both include enough margarine to last a year, but when in Rome, right? Again, these are rolled in sesame seeds. You can see them below:
Thursday’s task included boiling and dying the eggs. (Side note, when I say we dyed and boiled, it means I watched my host mom, taking notes with my eyes). On this day, (always the Thursday before Easter), people wake before sunrise to boil and dye the 3 eggs red (for the blood of Jesus). I’m not sure the purpose of waking before sunrise, but my friend Beka told me one of her colleagues said it’s possibly because after sunrise was when Mary wept for the death of Jesus. I’ve found that many people are unsure why they do certain things on holidays; they only know it as a tradition, passed down from their family. Anyway, typically three eggs are boiled and dyed: one for health, one for happiness, and one for Jesus Christ. Needless to say, Sofija and I did not wake up early. She had stayed up late the night before preparing the Kifli it was quite cold in the morning. So we did it later that day after school, making 28 red eggs. Here’s a hint to make your eggs shine: rub them with a little oil after you dye them and they will be even more beautiful!
Also, on Thursday, people bathe themselves and their young children with one of the eggs they boiled. By this, I mean rubbing the egg over their bodies in the shower. To answer the question you’re all wondering, yes, I participated in this. Before going in the shower, I mimed how to rub the egg over me, wondering if there was a certain way to do this. Then, when I went in the bathroom, I realized I forgot to ask if I do it before or after I wash myself with soap. And if I do it after I wash myself with soap, am I supposed to rinse myself off after I rub the egg on me?! So many questions I asked myself, not wanting to curse the tradition. Then, my better judgment came out and reminded myself that I’m not doing this for the religious aspect, just for the tradition. So, I felt pretty good, quite refreshed actually! And no, I did not smell like a hard-boiled egg nor was I dyed red.
Razor, check. Soap, check. Egg...check!
Razor, check. Soap, check. Egg...check!
With Friday came another day full of traditions. I attended church with Sofija where after waiting about twenty minutes walking in the most cramped line/crowd of people, we walked under the bed of Jesus. It was raised a little, and before walking under it, we put money and flowers on the bed. Then, we walked under the bed (I was supposed to make a wish, but forgot or was too overwhelmed with everything). When I walked to the other side, I found myself in a situation that is much similar to not being able to come up for air in a swimming pool because you're trapped under a large raft. There was nowhere for me to come out from under the bed! So, I had to nudge a women’s butt after saying “Izvini!” (excuse me!). Luckily, I made it out alive and took a huge breath of relief knowing I just completed a Macedonian tradition without sticking out as the oddball American. Afterwards, we grabbed a small bunch of flowers that were reused from what people had given from the other side of the bed and I watched as my host mom kissed and prayed over pictures of saints and finally, Jesus. It is common for people to leave clothing items, such as socks, and towels on Jesus’s cross.
Saturday was a day full of work. If you haven’t cleaned the house or certain parts, inside or outside, Saturday is the day you do it. So, beginning from when we woke up, Sofija, her son, his wife, and I cleaned and worked on the house with a few breaks in between. I have never cleaned my room so intensely, even back in America (sorry Mom!) I moved the bed back and forth in between sweeping and wet mopping the floor on my hands and knees. Needless to say, it looks great! Check it out for yourself:
Then, that night we went to Sofija’s father’s house for his 80th birthday! There are so many birthdays this month! We enjoyed some snacks consisting of salad, Kifli, and of course chocolate cake!
Later that night Sofija and I headed to the church around 11pm. Here in Macedonia, many people gather at the Orthodox Christian church before midnight to celebrate Jesus’s resurrection at 12:00. So, we met up with some of Sofija’s friends, lit our candles, and walked around the church three times. There were many people who joined the walk, but even more watching from the perimeter-it was very tricky maneuvering in a crowd of people, all who are holding a candle and most with only their hand to guard the flame from catching something or someone on fire. I felt at times like it was a race, Sofija zigging and zagging in between people and me trying my best to keep up with her. After the three laps were complete, we watched from the side as the “Pope” (Macedonian word for priest) read. At midnight he said, “Jesus has risen,” three times and everyone pulled out their red egg they carried to church. We cracked it against one another’s, alternating who hits from the top and who’s egg is on the bottom. Sofija’s egg turned out to be the hardest, with only one end breaking! Overall, it was a night full of culture and even though I am not a very religious person, I am very happy I attended church for this. Even better, I saw many of my students whose faces lit up when they saw me.
Later that night Sofija and I headed to the church around 11pm. Here in Macedonia, many people gather at the Orthodox Christian church before midnight to celebrate Jesus’s resurrection at 12:00. So, we met up with some of Sofija’s friends, lit our candles, and walked around the church three times. There were many people who joined the walk, but even more watching from the perimeter-it was very tricky maneuvering in a crowd of people, all who are holding a candle and most with only their hand to guard the flame from catching something or someone on fire. I felt at times like it was a race, Sofija zigging and zagging in between people and me trying my best to keep up with her. After the three laps were complete, we watched from the side as the “Pope” (Macedonian word for priest) read. At midnight he said, “Jesus has risen,” three times and everyone pulled out their red egg they carried to church. We cracked it against one another’s, alternating who hits from the top and who’s egg is on the bottom. Sofija’s egg turned out to be the hardest, with only one end breaking! Overall, it was a night full of culture and even though I am not a very religious person, I am very happy I attended church for this. Even better, I saw many of my students whose faces lit up when they saw me.
Sunday was Easter of course, and also Kiril’s birthday (my host mom’s son), so the morning and afternoon we prepared for guests who would be coming later that day. For me, this meant enjoying the sunshine since this is the first weekend in awhile that we had it. Angela, Kiril’s wife, prepared the food for the guests since it was her husband’s birthday, so I didn’t have to do much. In the evening, their family and friends arrived, arriving at different times so we were constantly taking away dirty plates and bringing new plates out, trying to find enough seating for everyone. I enjoy na gosti’s (visits) but when there are many people I don’t do much talking, which is not a problem. Sometimes I like to sit back and listen, still trying to pick up on as much as I can. This usually ends up with me stuffing my face with delicious carb loaded food rather than maintaining self-control (who knows what this is anymore?) We ended the night with cake, of course; Sofija made her delicious homemade chocolate cake, which is very common here in Macedonia (I may or may not have eaten two pieces and I may or may not have gone to bed with a stomach ache).
That was the end of the Easter celebrations-sometimes on Sundays children walk from house to house collecting eggs, but we didn’t have any visitors. However, when our guests left after the birthday and Easter celebration, we gave them colored eggs we made. This is a tradition everywhere in Macedonia, so needless to say we will be eating many eggs this week. I even took some to my friends when I met them for coffee today-Sofija made sure I didn’t leave the house without my umbrella and eggs!
Overall, it was a busy weekend with much time to rest in between the major events. I enjoy the many traditions, even if they don’t know why they do them. It’s simply because their parents did them and their parents’ parents did them-what more explanation is needed? I love experiencing everything new, although it can be very exhausting. On to the next holiday, May 1st!
XOXO
-R
Overall, it was a busy weekend with much time to rest in between the major events. I enjoy the many traditions, even if they don’t know why they do them. It’s simply because their parents did them and their parents’ parents did them-what more explanation is needed? I love experiencing everything new, although it can be very exhausting. On to the next holiday, May 1st!
XOXO
-R